Why You Should Always Hike Volcanoes in a Group...

Last Saturday, I had the distinct pleasure of hiking Volcan Pacaya, which is about 40 km southwest of Guatemala City. At an altitude of approximately 2,500 meters, this is certainly not an Andean volcano like Cotopaxi in Ecuador. However, Pacaya is unruly and began its most recent active period in 1965.

Unfortunately, the safest and most economical way to climb Pacaya is with a horde of predominantly out-of-shape tourists. So after 2 hours of picking up passengers, transfering to a bigger bus near the Pollo Campero (apparently where everything important happens in Antigua), navigating morning traffic...we made it to Pacaya National Park.

It is a 2 to 3 hour climb to the top of Pacaya, depending on your level of fitness and willingess to push through the burning sensation in your legs (or feet, in my case, due to a poor decision to 'blaze my own trail'). Because this is a volcano, it is an uphill climb. I mention this because one memorable American girl on our trip loudly remarked at minute 10 of the hike that she did not realize this was going to be an uphill hike.

I find it quite interesting that the biggest "huffers" were American...but not to worry, enterprising locals stand ready with their steady-footed horses repeating "Taxi...taxi..." until another unfit hiker surrenders. The biggest "puffers", as in, let me light a cigarette at hour 2 of an uphill climb, were European and Asian. Yet, bunking all medical research and statistics, the smokers were the leaders of the pack while most of the Americans needed horses to complete a 3 mile hike.

We hiked through fog, dirt, rain, gravel, sun...and finally, hit lava rock. This is the point where my hiking buddy was helping a struggling hiker and I decided to go ahead and hike up a different part of the volcano. Disregard whatever travel literature you may encounter on Pacaya...there are no trails or markings. You climb up, then you slide down. Who needs a trail?

I realized we were getting close to the summit when I looked down as I scampered up my trail and thought, "Why are these rocks gray?" As my shoes started to warm nicely, I realized I was literally hiking over steaming crevices in a volcano, at least 10 meters from the official "trail". In my week of SCUBA diving with Corey, I learned why we never dive alone (duh). I now understand why one should remain with the group when hiking a volcano. Fortunately, my guardian angel (who has worked major overtime the past couple of years), helped me navigate the life-sized barbeque pit and return to the company of other hikers.

Finally, after 3 hours of hiking and a near melting experience, we made it...just in time to enjoy the unimaginable glow of lava at dusk.
While many of the guys entertained themselves by igniting their walking sticks in the lava (interestingly, not a single female seemed remotely interested in this endeavor)...I continued to reflect with amazement that this volcano was completely pristine, oozing lava without a single fence or "Caution" sign in sight. Want to swim in the lava to get a really great photograph for Grandma? Try it out! I can guarantee, there was no one at Pacaya to stop you.

I wish this story ended with a reflection on the delights of the dark sky, fluorescent lava, and pulsing stars. Instead, our volcano hike concluded with a 3 hour descent in pure darkness. I knew I brought my headlamp for some reason! Unfortunately, it remained in my hotel room with my common sense.